On Sifnos, you change place and your mood changes too

One of the beautiful things about Sifnos is that you do not need to go very far to feel you have changed scenery. In the morning you may be in a village, among paved lanes and bakeries; at midday on a beach with sunbeds and food; in the afternoon in a quiet cove; and at night back in a lane, this time full of people and fun. All this without really travelling. Just a few turns in the road.

The northern side has a different feeling. More remote, quieter, it needs more time because it invites you into its slower rhythm.

The south is easier for beaches, food, families, days when you want everything close at hand.

The centre is the life of the island: the villages, the walks, the evening, the smells from the bakeries, the small shops.

Do not try to fit them all into the same day. You will do them an injustice. It is better to give each side its time. One day for the south, one for the north, one for the villages, one with no plan at all.

Sifnos is small on the map, but everywhere it is different. And that is one of its finest qualities.