If you are, like me, a fan of rocks and prefer them to beaches, Sifnos has very nice places to go, away from the crowds, shops, umbrellas and sunbeds. Away from tourist facilities too, so make sure you have at least some water.
To the north is Cherronisos. At the end of the road, instead of going left and down to the settlement, go right and follow the path clearly visible towards the sea. Lower down and a little further north you will find nice rocks for diving and an easy return to the mainland. Be careful though! Don’t go when there are north winds, it’s dangerous. But it is ideal with south winds and even better with apnea!
To the east is Poulati, and Kastro. Poulati is a dream place, a bit wild, with lots of local bamboo and many stairs to reach the sea… a little more than 90 but a little less than 100! You can walk from Artemonas or Kastro or drive on a dirt road for about 10 minutes from Artemonas to the church dedicated to Panagia Poulati. From there, 3 – 4 meters after the church door, on the left, you will see the steps we were talking about… Reaching the bottom you will be enchanted by the color of the water, the rock formations and maybe you will see some fresh water running from the spring that flows higher up the hill. On your left hand you can see the “killer’s rock” but I don’t want to scare you now with its stories…
In Kastro go to the Eptamartyro (Church of the Seven Martyrs), a very popular chapel on the island, much photographed, perched on a rock behind the settlement of Kastro. To go there you take a paved path with easy and low steps. From the entrance of the village it is about a 10′-15′ walk. When you reach the church you will see more steps on the right leading to the lovely, flat rocks, ideal for diving, and others, equally inviting, closer to the wate